By Jeff Simmons
Protein. It’s everywhere. From our center of the plate favorites to protein popcorn, ramen to even protein-packed ice cream, it’s clear – we’re in the midst of a protein revolution. Cottage cheese sales are up 50% in five years, after years of decline. Animal protein sales hit a record $104.6 billion in 2024. Two-thirds of consumers are increasing protein intake. People are making their choices known via their wallets.
Beyond their wallets, the increasing use of GLP-1s continues to drive overall consumption – meat consumption is expected to rise by 50% in the next decade, and here’s some big news: our new dietary guidelines further support the growing amount of protein going into the grocery cart. Great news for consumers and animal protein farmers.
It’s the backdrop to my latest Shared Table conversation with Nina Teicholz, PhD, an investigative science journalist, author and nutrition policy advocate. Best known for her New York Times bestselling book The Big Fat Surprise: Why Butter, Meat and Cheese Belong in a Healthy Diet, Nina went from being a vegetarian for two decades to an advocate for animal protein. It’s conversations like these that make the table more than a place for a meal; it’s a powerful space for genuine connection and open dialogue, where diverse perspectives are welcome.
I sat down with Nina at Tessa Restaurant in New York City, where we shared great food, dove into the protein revolution, our dietary guidelines and what the future of nutrition holds.
From Vegetarian to Protein Advocate
Nina’s journey is nothing short of remarkable. For two decades, she lived as a vegetarian. Her diet consisted of abundant vegetables, homemade seven-grain bread and pasta. Yet, despite her diligent efforts, she struggled. “I was probably 25 pounds heavier than I am now and I always struggled with my weight and was always thinking about food. It didn’t even occur to me that I needed to get protein,” she admitted.
Best Quote: “There’s been this slow creep of plant foods into the animal protein category. Lentils, peas, beans, legumes, nuts, seeds, you can serve all of these plant proteins at schools as if they were an animal protein. And the kids are not getting their nine essential amino acids in order to generate a real protein. They’re just not getting complete nutrition. They’re not getting the iron, the folates that come with meat. They’re getting a wallop of starch. So, I think we are just selling our kids so short.”
The turning point came unexpectedly. As a restaurant reviewer for a local newspaper that couldn’t afford to pay for meals, she ate whatever chefs sent out. The main course on the menu? Meat. It’s an experience that changed Nina’s perspective forever. “I lost weight without even trying to. I go to my doctor, he’s like, your cholesterol numbers are better than ever. Why is that?” This moment combined with her extensive research led her to a realization: “I have really gotten this completely wrong.”
Shifting From Plant-Based to the Protein Revolution
Nina’s story illustrates the range of opinions on our diets. As dietary guidelines change, so do people’s opinions on foods. For many years, there was a strong belief that low fat, high-grains, plant-based diets were the best. Nina notes that because of this belief, many scientists have built their careers around it, making it difficult to revise direction, even as new evidence emerges.
Moment to Remember: The public is speaking loud and clear: taste, cost and nutrition are winning. After years of fad diets focused on low-fat, high-carb approaches, people are experimenting and finding health benefits by increasing animal protein.
Today, market forces are driving a cultural shift. The movement against sugars, carbs, and processed foods is gaining momentum. The rise of GLP-1 medications also creates a critical need for muscle preservation, and animal protein is the most nutritious option for maintaining muscle mass. Taste, cost, and nutrition are winning.
The Future of Nutrition
In 2015, Nina started The Nutrition Coalition, which aims to change the U.S. Dietary Guidelines. At the time of our conversation, Nina was hopeful that the new changes being made by Secretary Kennedy at HHS would remove low-fat diet recommendations and excessive daily servings of refined grains, shifting the focus to protein. The recent announcement of dietary guidelines did just that.
Dietary guidelines impact all facets of our lives, including what our children eat at schools – a critical area of focus for Nina. Current school breakfast programs often fail to meet protein requirements. With reduced protein intake, children lack essential amino acids, iron, and other vital nutrients. “We are selling our kids so short. Changing school nutrition is the point of the arrow for societal health.”
For families seeking practical nutrition advice, Nina offers a simple message: “Prioritize protein at every meal. Protein is essential not only for your muscles but also for immune health and overall bodily function. Eat your protein first.”
Big Takeaway: The path to genuine public health improvement hinges on fostering open debate, allowing every viewpoint to be heard and challenging the status quo. This process is vital for uncovering fundamental truths about nutrition, including the essential role of animal protein for health, and driving the critical evaluation of our dietary guidelines.
Nina’s personal mission is clear: “Totally committed to finding out the truth about nutrition and health.” She sees it as a “moral and ethical calling to bring truth to people.” However, to see continued progress, Nina advocates for “absolute freedom of speech in scientific debate,” where every viewpoint is heard, and open engagement, contradiction and even debate are welcomed.
